Retro Trip Recap! Sister Soiree 2009: Belize and Guatemala

20363_233657834132_2818604_nRecently, I was organizing my blog by destination and lamented the lack of posts from my  pre-blog trips. THEN, I recalled that Jessie and I did a blog for our Sister Soiree trip!  I did some sleuthing and found it!  Here it is, in eight ‘enhanced’ blog posts with more photos and details than we originally posted (due to slow/expensive internet connection.) Jessie wrote half of these posts but took more than half of the naps on this trip.


Blue Hole, Belize

Jessie and I are going on a SISTER TRIP!  In seven days we are embarking on a 3 week journey in Central America. We have only made basic plans in order to leave time for adventure to find us along the way. (Jessie is sure that I am going to want to ‘do stuff’ all the time so she made me promise that we could have lots of naps.)

Waterfalls, Belize
Waterfalls, Belize

Belize is first. Beach, snorkel, swim, sand and maybe some rum. Belize is known for it’s caves and jaguars, both of which are on our “to do” list.

Pacaya Volcano, Guatemala


Next, we’ll head north to the Mayan ruins of Tikal.

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We are still working out an itinerary. We are starting in Belize and working our way to Antigua, Guatemala where we fly home from. We plan to do the budget-tourist trail of things : ruins, snorkel, volcano, cave tubing, jaguar reserve….

If anyone has any suggestions please share.

Adrienne and I will update the blog as we go when we get the chance.

Sister Soiree 2009: Viva Belize!



Jessie and I arrived at the Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) @ 4pm yesterday, got our luggage, cleared customs and then encountered our first travel challenge. We knew we needed to get to the bus station but where was the cue of cabs outside the airport? As we stood on the sidewalk, assessing the situation a fellow American walked out of the airport, friendly chatting with a local in Spanish. During our Houston lay-over, she had stuck out of the crowd with her salon-dreadlocks & North Face gear and I had made a sarcastic comment about her to Jessie. Now I needed her help! (Travel karma is a real thing, folks! Don’t be a jerk!) I ran after her into the parking lot and thankfully her friend agreed to take us to the bus station.


We took the 5:15pm bus to Dangriga on an old American school bus for 2 hours. The heat made our thighs stick to the pleather, just like in middle school. Upon arrival in Dangriga we found Val’s and signed up for bunk beds for 2 nights ($44us).

IMG_5964Val is friendly and let us know that we were getting the last of the bunk bed because they were all reserved for the Settlement Day Festivities! We set up our beds and head out to explore Dangriga!

1913571_372972605787_7039708_nThere is a big river that runs right through town and out to sea. There are fisherman everywhere. And the red snapper looks delicious!


Sister Soiree 2009: Pre-Settlement Day Festivities


Wednesday night the drumming started at dusk. Since the 19th was a national holiday and no one had to work, they got started partying early. Everyone says hello and smiles and we end up sitting on the curb watching people dance in the street before we wander on.


Dangriga had a great vibe – since even the locals were on holiday- not just us!  IMG_0053 (1)
It gets dark at 5:30pm here too! It seems unfair to have so little light in the tropics, but it is keeping me from burning into a crisp. (Jessie has year-round Chaco tan-lines and a Vitamin D deficiency, so she’s loving the sun.)


The locals kept insisting that we wouldn’t be needing our beds that night because the party goes on until sunrise. Jessie, Abby, Janelle (our new friends from Bend, Or) and I took a taxi out to Malibu beach and waited for the band to get started…at 11:30pm- no wonder the party goes until dawn. We played cards on the beach (We called it ‘Abby Always Wins!’ but it was basically UNO with a 52-card deck.) Janelle was really into arm wrestling every we met. She was good!

1913571_372972705787_660055_nAfter a few attempts at dancing to ‘Diamond’s drumming, we headed back into town, a bit disappointed that the night was so low-key. The streets were still busy with drunken festivities as Jessie and I headed back to Val’s. We’d had enough Punta Rock (rap/reggae mix music and or lifestyle) for the night and the drumming outside our hostel would signal the beginning of Settlement day at sunrise.

Sister Soiree 2009: Settlement Day Parade

HAPPY 19!!!
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We woke up at 8am and realized that the first great thing about Settlement day was that they don’t start the boat-landing ceremony right outside our hostel! Nice. We got some yummy scrambled eggs and Journey/Johnny Cakes for breakfast.1913571_372994990787_1782082_n

Then we stumbled across our new friend CJ who works at a stock photo/ web design company. He was the only float in line for the 10:00 parade… it was 10:30. We wandered down to the closed and possibly abandoned Garifuna museum then back to the parade. On the way we discovered a bike race. Those guys looked serious.IMG_0067

At around 11:30 the 10 o’clock parade was under way. We made our way to the beginning of the parade so we did not miss anything.IMG_6057

Jessie’s favorite part was the Chinese float. They had firecrackers, gongs and these fancy dancing dragons. (Random Factoid: Nearly all of the shops in Belize are owned by the Chinese because they don’t pay import taxes and can get goods cheaply. Somebody worked out a nice trade deal…)IMG_0087

The parade concluded with a Punta Rock float sponsored by Western Union. It was just a flatbed semi-truck with a band and an insane number of speakers. All the spectator rolled off the curbs and into the street to follow this last float through the city, dancing all the way. IMG_6101We did our best to keep up but eventually the heat and the constant dancing wore us out and we had to go for smoothies and naps.

Sister Soiree 2009: The very best change of plans… Glover’s Atoll

11.25.2009IMG_0208When you last left us, we were in Dangriga enjoying the Settlement Day festivities and making plans for our next move. Val recommended that we spend time on Glover’s Atoll but they only run the boat once a week so we would have to forgo any other destinations in Belize. A week on a private island? We’re IN! That is how we ended up on a Caribbean island with 6 other people…gotta love serendipity.


Glover’s Atoll is a tiny island about 2.5 hours ride from the mainland and was purchased in 1967 by a French and American couple named Lomont. Now their kids and grandkids run Glover’s. It is not a resort. We brought all our own food for the week and will be staying in a two-story beachside cabana. We can sign up for snorkeling, scuba, fishing, kayaking, meals….the works.


This is Jessie loving the boat ride- I was ok on the way out, but the choppy seas on the way back made me feel like I was having a panic attack every time the boat lifted off the waves. Jessie said it was because I’m not a ‘water sign’.  She thought it was fantastic but her zodiac sign is a crab.


The island is tiny (you can walk the perimeter in less than half an hour) and the cabanas are very rustic. Gorgeous, but rustic.

IMG_0224Our cabin was a less expensive beach cabana with a kitchen underneath. It has a propane stove and a bunch of hermit crabs that get into any unsealed food. This was definitely CAMPING not a luxury resort (only the mess hall has electricity). There are terrible TripAdvisor reviews but they are written by people who did not realize they would be roughing it. You should absolutely go.


There are composting toilets, outdoor showers and a conch shell faucet on the painted outdoor sink.

IMG_0318We have been snorkeling 3 times a day, everyday and have been hanging out with Carol and Eric Bacon (our surrogate parents from Alaska). Warren, the 17-year-old grandson took Carol, Eric and Jessie deep sea fishing and they caught red snapper for dinner. It took both Carol and I to reel up 700ft of line with a few fish on it.

IMG_0248While fishing they saw a water spout (very far away) which is a tornado on the water…very neat.


The Bacons are well-traveled and brought curry powder with them! They cooked up an insanely delicious coconut curry with red snapper and rice.  Jessie attempted to climb a tree and snag us a fresh coconut for the curry but she didn’t get too far! (“Mowgli made this look so easy!”)


We found some young coconuts on the ground and made coconut milk for the curry. It was intensely flavorful – I had never eaten fish so fresh! (Until the next day when Warren caught a tuna and they rolled fresh sushi in the kitchen!) Below is the view of the catamaran from the mess hall.1913571_373104320787_1032305_nWe had such a great week!  The last two days were rainy so we had to find other ways to entertain ourselves with walks and books and hermit crab races. Life was not intense. We loved it.

Sister Soiree 2009: Thanksgiving Lobster @ Glover’s Atoll


The frigate birds put on an impressive show as they hunt for their Thanksgiving Day meal.


Our little band of travelers gather together for Thanksgiving festivities. Here we are, enamored with whatever Eric Bacon is telling as we drink our Kool-aid.


We are joined by the inhabitants of the neighboring island, the Marine Park Rangers. And they bring  with them, Spiney Lobsters! They are clawless and full of tasty meat to dip in butter… I wouldn’t mind replacing T-day turkey with these more often!


Not to be outdone, Beatrice whips up some yummy coconut meringue pies for dessert! That’s Becky behind her- she runs the resort that her parents own.


Another night we had a ‘potluck’ and a ‘bonfire’ which had to be constantly tended to because all we had to burn was dried palm leaves and coconut husks. Jessie is enjoying her coconut full of rum, wishing we had a nice chunk of oak for our fire.

1913571_373104140787_6037515_nAfter all the food and rum, we’d head back to our 2-story, beach-front cabana and wish we had electricity and a fan. (J- do you still have that a Rainbow Bright sheet?)1913571_373104120787_2740218_n

Most nights we’d take quick showers right before bed in the futile hope that evaporation would make us cool enough to fall asleep. It was hot. And rainy. And there were 1 million hermit crabs.

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If you left the bread out in the kitchen, the tiny hermit crabs would nip their way through the plastic and nibble on your toast! They were tiny and left tracks in the sand every night.


They wer also entertaining. One night we found the biggest ones and had a race to see whose crab would be the first to make it out of a circle we drew in the sand. Did I mention we didn’t have any electricity?1913571_373103975787_1858883_n

This silly hermit made his new home in a marker cap!


If we had managed to keep the crabs out of our bread, in the morning I could make french toast!


Check out the Conch-shell wind-guard we set up for  our propane stove. We also made eggs!


The french toast turned out great! We brought NZ butter in a can but we didn’t have syrup… but we had the next best thing- Marie Sharp’s Mango jam! YUMMO!


After breakfast the non-cook was on dish duty! The baked-on eggs had to be scrubbed out of the pan with sand. Luckily, Eric was there to keep things humorous.


Let’s GO BAAACK for some more rustic-island camping! Who is in?!?1913571_373104105787_2200398_n


Sister Soiree 2009: ATM or the Cave of the Crystal Maiden

It’s time to leave the island and head back to mainland Belize. Jessie, Carol, Eric, Whitney, Leslie and I shared a taxi from Dangriga where the boat dropped us off to the cramped, hilly town of San Ignacio near the border of Guatemala($35pp).
It is low tourist season so we got hassled quite a bit but we found a get place to sign up for a cave tour. Mayawalk was so great. Owned by locals that have been doing tours for a long time. Many of the other places are owned my foreigners who constantly harassed us as we explored the city. Our guide, Martin was incredible. He was so knowledgable and passionate about the ATM.
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 The tour starts with a 45min walk through the jungle with a few river crossings. Martin tells us about the ATM or Actun Tunichil Muknal which has only been open to the public since 1998. It is significant because it was used by the Mayans for ritual sacrifices.
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We entered the cave through this hourglass-shaped opening and immediately had to swim 45ft through a cool cave pool. As soon as we got away from the light Martin had us hold on to the person in front of us walk in complete darkness. At one point, Martin plays us a song by smacking his palms on a series of stalagtites.
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There were all sorts of stalactites/mites and crystals in the rocks that made them sparkle in the light of your headlamp.
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We eventually came to the end of the cave tour (the actual cave kept going).
We had walked a half mile into a mountain and were under 600ft of earth.
We hadn’t seen daylight for hours but Martin had a spotlight and would shine it on things so we could take photos. He also had to keep us from errantly stepping on a stray skull since they were only separated from us by lines of tape.
 There were entire pots and shards everywhere. When the Mayans made sacrifices they would leave them in 3 different pots, all facing different directions.
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Nothing was roped off so you had to be careful in the dark of where you stepped. We were required to wear only socks to help preserve this gently sloping area created by mineral deposits.
At the highest point in the cave we found the Crystal Maiden. Martin told us that he had lead tours for many anthropologists who have studied this cave and its well-preserved artifacts. This is a depiction of one of the Hero Twins who fought the Gods of the underworld and won! 
The anthropologists taught Martin that the maiden was a young teen female who had most likely been sacrificed to Chaac the Mayan god of rain. But, the rain didn’t come and the Mayans moved on.  Over the centuries as water ran over the bones it left sparkly calcite crystal deposits.
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 Time to hike back out. What an epic day!

Sister Soiree 2009: Sunrise @ Tikal or Jessie makes a Tarantula friend.


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We part ways with our Glover’s crew and crossed the border on foot. We were welcomed into Guatemala by the falling ash of burnt trash falling from the sky. And all of a sudden we didn’t know how to talk to anyone! Luckily, that was last week and now our memories of Guatemala are much more fond. And our Spanish has improved… a bit. I never caught on that ‘nombre’ meant NAME because it sounded like NUMBER. I kept wondering why people were asking me for my number…

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We caught a minibus to Flores, about 2.5 hrs from the border, a cute little town on an island. We arrived at night and after finding Los Amigos hostel was full, found Dona Goya.

Jessie reads ‘Water for Elephants’ in the Doya Gona hostel, Flores, Guatemala.

We didn’t make plans for the morning because I was still feeling a bit under the weather. Instead we went back to Los Amigos to have smoothies for breakfast. Yumm. They still didn’t have room for us. We walked the town a bit but it was so, so hot.  Time to make new plans.

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This is the orange lady who peels Jessie’s fruit just the way she like it- for $.25!

By lunch we had gotten antsy and decided to head off for Tikal, 1 hr shuttle ride from Flores.

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Temple of the Jaguar, where they buried Lord Chocolate with 16kilos of Jade jewelry.

We rented a tent with an air mattress for $10 each and dashed off into the park to see what we could see before it closed at 6pm. We found our way to the central plaza and climbed up the wooden staircase (you can’t climb any of the temples now) to watch the full moon rising over the Jaguar temple.

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The only other person there was Fransisco, the night guard. For the past 12 years he has worked the 6pm-6am shift with 2 other guards. His English was as poor as our Spanish, but when he kept telling us we had lots of time, don’t leave yet- we relaxed an enjoyed the moonlight. Then when we should have been leaving, he motioned for us to follow him to Temple 4- the largest temple in Tikal.

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Our new guard friend took us up to the top of Temple 4, where we met Jerry and Mitchell from San Franciso. It was just the 5 of us, on top of this bazillion-year-old temple, watching the full moon rise. Whew. Amazing stuff. As Francisco lead us out of the park, he stopped us at the clearing of middle of the largest temples, the ‘town square’ and motioned for us to watch him. He brought his hands together in a LOUD CLAP, which proceeded to furiously bounce back and forth between the temples making a noise like a hi-speed zip-line! It was fantastic! Apparently, the buildings were carefully places so that announcements made by the priests, standing on the temples, would be amplified.

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We headed back to our tent and were getting ready to go to bed without supper when our California gentlemen showed up and demanded we join them for dinner, their treat! We couldn’t turn them down and had a lovely time chatting about their birding and our travels. They were lovely! Off to bed now zzzz…..

Sister Soiree 2009: An Introvert’s Illness

introvertJessie got sick. It turns out that the sudden transition from non-electric island life to the bustle of San Ignacio (with a gaggle of exhausting extroverts) was a shock to the system of my introvert sister. (In 2009, J was an un-diagnosed introvert. Back then, she was just a girl who took naps with a frequency that rivaled most house cats.) Here we are, 3 siblings, practicing our napping.1077599_10153048570410788_99132229_o

When extra naps didn’t fix the mystery illness, we decided it was time to strike out into the unknown and see what magical cures the Pharmacia had in store. (Here’s me, in our $7.50 hotel room)


Ooh! Look at all the choices!
1913571_374555335787_6325288_nJessie chooses the one with the best name… Chesty Cough Mixture!

1913571_374555355787_5824364_nHere goes nothing! In this photo, Jessie is experience the ‘Chesty Cough Mixture’s mentholated goodness!

1913571_374555360787_955906_nAnd here is the moment when J decides that she is cured and will never need to take that medicine again!1913571_374555375787_7881754_nCURED!

Just for giggles, here is the EXTROVERT care card. (In case you haven’t met me… I’m a classic extrovert.)extroverts1 (1)



Sister Soiree 2009: Semuc Champey and my first travel injury.

1913571_374738280787_625062_nOur next adventure was spending 6+ hours in a minibus from Flores to Coban on our way to Semuc Champey! I took this photo because it was the first street light we’d seen for weeks! The barely-floating ‘ferry’ was not my favorite…


When we got to Coban, we got ate and switched vehicles for the next 2 hour journey to the small, mountain village of Lanquin. The jungle mountains were lush and humid.1913571_374738315787_7620492_n (1)

FINALLY, in Lanquin,  we were transferred to the back of a pick-up for 30 minutes of bumpy 2-track down into the jungle valley. It was dark by the time we arrived at the Los Marias Hostel.1913571_374738340787_1229879_n  Here it is the next morning.


Speaking of mornings- Los Marias made us lovely breakfasts! It seems that fried eggs are a  breakfast staple, world-wide! The warm tortillas were a nice touch.Screen Shot 2015-05-06 at 1.44.25 PM

During breakfast at our hostel, we met Nichola Cagey and Travis and together we swam through the Las Marias caves with candles.


It was nearly impossible to swim while ALSO holding our candle- but our guide kept his dry and would relight ours after every swim.

22632_443389970701_6045759_nAfter jumping off the rope swing into the river, we headed to see the terraced pools of turquoise water that make Semuc Champey a (hard to reach) tourist destination. 22632_443390215701_3678223_n

The water was refreshing and full of tiny fish who gave your feet pedicures! Next, we made the hike up to the viewing platform. It was definitely worth the effort.11046808_10153551534349133_73477039343046187_oThe climb made us hungry, so we bought quite a few of these rounds of homemade chocolate from the little kids outside our hostel. They came in cinnamon, anise, cardamon and vanilla. You can see the handprint in the one Jessie is holding. Authenitcally hand-made!

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On our very last day in Semuc Champey- I almost broke my arm! (J- do you have a photo of the patch-job you did on me?)

Here’s the good/bad of how it went down.

The good news: our dorm was clean and nearly empty. The bad news: 0ur dorm room was at the top of a steep hill. The good news: there were wide, even stairs! The bad news: the stairs were tiled with decorative pieces of VERY SLIPPERY plates! The worst news: it rained the morning we left. I was doomed.( Here’s a gorgeous photo of the Cahabón River to build suspense.)22632_443390150701_6965053_n

That morning I was the first one packed up, so I headed down to put in our order for breakfast since our pick-up would arrive soon. Half-way down the stairs I lost my footing on a slippery tile and my feet flew out from under me as my heavy backpack yanked me to the ground. Instinctually, I put my arm out to brace myself and my forearm connected with the edge of a concrete step. I let out a loud scream, “F*%@$!!!” Jessie comes running out of the dorm, top speed, down the stairs and slips on the step and scrapes up her ankle. What a good sister. I’m still yelling as Jessie undoes the buckles on my giant pack and helps me up. We cleaned up the scrape on my forearm with soap and water, applied some Neosporin and taped a panty-liner to the wound since it wouldn’t stop bleeding. Then, we shoved breakfast in our faces and prepared for another full-day, multiple-vehicle trip thru Guatemala. Thanks to some TLC from my sister, the cut on my arm healed nicely. (You can still see the scar, but just barely.) Here I am, happily eating more fried plantain chips on our way to Antigua. I love my sister!1913571_374738270787_8107017_n